What do drywall nails look like

There are advantages and disadvantages to both types of fasteners. A drywall nail typically has a cupped head and a ringed shank. They are available in different gauges, which indicate the diameter of the shank.

The most common is 13 gauge. The ringed shank helps the hold the nail in place after it is driven through the drywall and into the stud. The cupped head, which is concave, helps hide the nail for a smoother surface after mudding and sanding. Not every drywall nail has a concave, or cupped, head. Modern drywall systems are largely installed with drywall screws. Drywall screws may occasionally snap off but they will never pop out. Instead, the nail pops in your ceiling and walls are caused by short drywall nails that are no longer firmly attached in the two-by-four studs.

Most houses built prior to the s that have not been subsequently remodeled will almost always have drywall hung with nails, not drywall screws.

Even if you have walls that have been built after the s, you might still have wallboard hung with drywall nails, since some drywall installers prefer to use nails.

As the wood studs dry out over time, the wood fibers lose their grip and are no longer able to hold the smooth shank of the drywall nail. The nails protrude, usually bringing drywall compound filler and paint with them. It is usually fruitless to pound the nails back in place because the wood will not hold the shank.

The concept behind fixing nail pops is to place drywall screws not nails on both sides of the nail pop. This effectively replaces the nail with the screws, but without the mess of digging out the nail. Know in advance that additional nail pops may form along the stud you are working on or those adjacent to it because your repairs are disturbing the wallboard and causing it to move.

It helps, too, to have a strong light source aimed at a low angle across the wall, as this will help you quickly identify protrusions. Wearing safety glasses, use the hammer to drive the protruding nail back into the wall, being careful not to damage too much of the drywall around it. Be sure to use a smooth-headed hammer, not a hammer with a waffle or grid head. The result will be a small, round indentation in the wall. Secure the drywall to the wooden studs using two drywall screws, one on each side of the nail.

Use the drill and a driver bit to drive a drywall screw into the wallboard, hitting the stud underneath until the screw head creases the drywall paper. Place another drywall screw on the other side of the nail pop.

Both screws should be about 1 or 2 inches from the nail. In the previous step, if you were unable to hammer the drywall nail in and get it to stay in, the two drywall screws that you drive in this step usually will be strong enough to pull the drywall tight up against the stud.

Use the drywall taping knife to apply a light layer of joint compound over the holes. Smooth the excess with the knife so that it is flush with the wall.

At this point, do not worry if the indentations are still visible. Drywall screws offer the needed protection that will help keep the drywall in place. Wall Installations When it comes to wall installations, drywall nails are every bit as effective as drywall screws, and much cheaper. The spaces and dimples you make will later be loaded with joint compound and covered up. Request your free Estimate. Your Name. Phone Number. Email Address. Chicago Drywall Contractors.